View Poll Results: Clutching....which one & why

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  • Stock

    23 42.59%
  • EPI kit

    3 5.56%
  • Dalton kit

    3 5.56%
  • QSC clutch

    1 1.85%
  • CVTech/Airdam

    16 29.63%
  • STM

    5 9.26%
  • Other

    3 5.56%
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Clutching Poll

This is a discussion on Clutching Poll within the Engines, Drivelines, and Maintenance forums, part of the Can-Am Commander UTV Garage category; if you sell it what setup would you go with?...


  1. #21
    1/4 Throttle
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    Default clutch

    if you sell it what setup would you go with?

  2. #22
    Founding Member Flyingbryan's Avatar
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    If I do sell it I will have to stay with stock.

    As I understand the STM also lets go at very low speeds so that will not work either. Adam at Airdam said it should work with his setup so I will keep working with him to see if we can find a way to make the engine breaking work as good as stock. After hearing I am not the only one with this, I will go out on a test day and keep the CVT cover off to see if first this set up is working (engine breaking at all speeds) and second if it does release at slow speeds to see if it is the Primary or Secondary. Once we know that I could replace the one that is slipping with the stock one and keep the other. I still have both my stock Primary and Secondary so that should come in handy for the tests.

    I can drive one hour to do the test but no power there so impact wrench will not work off my inverter on my truck. That means testing but no switching out clutches. Or I can drive 2 hours and have everything at my finger tips at a house with a garage and do the test there. Only problem is I am working almost every night and I can't spend 4 hours on the road and work on the clutch, rest up for work all in 10 hours, so looks like I have to wait or do this in a couple of trips.

  3. #23
    LBR
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Flyingbryan View Post
    If I do sell it I will have to stay with stock.

    As I understand the STM also lets go at very low speeds so that will not work either. Adam at Airdam said it should work with his setup so I will keep working with him to see if we can find a way to make the engine breaking work as good as stock. After hearing I am not the only one with this, I will go out on a test day and keep the CVT cover off to see if first this set up is working (engine breaking at all speeds) and second if it does release at slow speeds to see if it is the Primary or Secondary. Once we know that I could replace the one that is slipping with the stock one and keep the other. I still have both my stock Primary and Secondary so that should come in handy for the tests.

    I can drive one hour to do the test but no power there so impact wrench will not work off my inverter on my truck. That means testing but no switching out clutches. Or I can drive 2 hours and have everything at my finger tips at a house with a garage and do the test there. Only problem is I am working almost every night and I can't spend 4 hours on the road and work on the clutch, rest up for work all in 10 hours, so looks like I have to wait or do this in a couple of trips.
    I personally will never use an impact gun on either sheave set to tighten nor loosen the bolt....you can also use 2 very large screwdrivers and a crankshaft lock bolt to hold both components from turning at your riding site for in field test and tuning....

    IMO, the BRP tools that I have bought are affordable......I can take a pic of them if you like and call out what they are for, give the measurements if you wanted to build your own, give you the BRP tool number for you to order whatever you wanted or may even be able to find the invoice with prices for them.....

  4. #24
    Founding Member Flyingbryan's Avatar
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    I only put the Airdam in and took it out. Used the impact both times to loosen the bolt and torque wrench to tighten. But didn't have the best setup holding everything. I was afraid the clutch might brake using large pry bar or screwdivers. I don't have a welder to make anything here. And the tool would not work on all the Stock, Airdam, and STM clutches. If I remember right the Primary can be done without to much problem because you can put it in PARK and pry against that, but the secondary spins.

    But yes if you don't mind, a picture would be great if you have one.

    Thanks

  5. #25
    Sitting Idle
    Join Date
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    Default

    Keep us posted Brian. I would like to have engine braking all the way too.

    Thanks

  6. #26
    Founding Member Flyingbryan's Avatar
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    Spud, I talked to Adam yesterday and he thinks we can get the breaking working all the way down like stock. Adam was thinking the problem is, the secondary is not pushing hard enough to close all the way down and that was keeping the belt from grabbing on the one way bearing on the primary.
    So I will still put it on and test it like it is but if it doesn't work like I want Adam said that the yellow spring on the STM secondary is not the strongest and we could go with a gold spring that is stronger and change the weights to match the stronger gold spring. But Adam was confident that we can figure it out.

  7. #27
    LBR
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flyingbryan View Post
    a picture would be great if you have one. Thanks
    I did a short write-up of some common Rotax tools with a picture here:

    Rotax Specific Tools

  8. #28
    Founding Member Razorback Dave's Avatar
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    I went with Adam at Airdam because he was the first one to offer something. His pricing was very good. I liked doing business with him.

    The performance increase i saw with his clutch was amazing.

  9. #29
    LBR
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    Quote Originally Posted by Razorback Dave View Post
    I went with Adam at Airdam because he was the first one to offer something. His pricing was very good. I liked doing business with him.

    The performance increase i saw with his clutch was amazing.
    I'm needing another primary and secondary desperately for my Rhino and it will probably be the Airdam setup also

    Sent by my twin-turbo Droid Razr

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