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New Commander check list

This is a discussion on New Commander check list within the Product Reviews, Write-Up's, and How-To's forums, part of the Member's Forums category; Welcome, As far as at the dealer, check everything very close from scratches, direction the shocks are installed (many are upside down), stickers (some need to be replaced), bolt heads ...


  1. #1
    Founding Member Flyingbryan's Avatar
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    Thumbs upNew Commander check list

    Welcome,
    As far as at the dealer, check everything very close from scratches, direction the shocks are installed (many are upside down), stickers (some need to be replaced), bolt heads you can see, fuel tank should be FULL, check for winch controller (in glove box), and how many miles are on it (dealers tend to drive a couple of miles but put 0 miles on the paperwork, if a issue comes up under warranty you want to be able to say maybe they messed it up in the 3 miles they drove it before you picked it up).
    Also check all the black push clips are all in (these are the round clips all over the Commander holding things together). And under the hood you want to make sure the two black rubber grommets are all there.

    This should be a non issue but very important:
    Check the rear differential S/N. You can do this by lifting the dump bed and looking from the right side at the rear differential. What you don't want to see, and make them change it out if you do (defective design and come apart on you) is the original or old S/N
    Old Rear Diff Assy S/N is 705501391. (the last three numbers 391 is what you don't want)
    Newest Rear Diff Assy S/N is 705501411. This is most likely what you will see.
    There are other numbers that came between that are not coming apart but stay away from 391.
    The full number is on a 1"x3" white sticker right on the rear diff

    Also the dealers program the two keys that come with your commander with their dealer name. You will see this every time you turn the key on, at power up the dealers name will scroll across the display. Here is the good part, if you ask, every dealer I have heard of has had no problem doing this for free. They will take there name off and program your name in or whatever you want it to say. I don't know how many characters it will do but at least 18. You can do both caps and lower case but caps look better. I had my name put in but you can have it say anything you want when you first turn on the key. One thing on this, they must have your Commander there to make this change or maybe call them before you get there because it may take a couple of hours before they get to it in maintenance. Also if you want to buy a spare key now is the time to get it, again because they need the commander to set the key up. Black key is the performance key but some dealers make the grey key performance by mistake. I would guess you could even ask to have both grey and black keys programmed as performance keys if you want.

    As far as parts, I would ask for a couple spare push clips that you see all over the Commander. Maybe 5 spares. (They should throw that in)

    As far as warranty, it comes with a 6 month warranty that is from BRP / Can Am, that can be extended to 3 years total. Aftermarket warranty may be what they want to sell you, but you can get BRP 3 year or go longer with aftermarket warranty. They do have room to deal on the warranty so don't be afraid to ask for at least a couple of hundred less than what they offer you on that. I paid $800 for a four year warranty but had no idea at the time it was aftermarket. So far, it has more than paid for it's self with a new rear diff, belt, and hood. But that also depends on the dealer you go to.

    One last thing most dealers will give you 10% off anything else you want that day, ask if you can get that deal in a couple of weeks when you get a chance to figure out what all you want. I got some great helmets online for less than $50 each so keep that in mind before you spend $150 a helmet, if buying helmets.

    I am sure your dealer will help out if any problems come up but that is all the stuff I would think about.


    If anyone has more to add please post it.
    Last edited by Flyingbryan; 05-03-2011 at 12:43 AM.

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    BLR
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    Those are some very good points for the newbies just getting their Commanders...Thanks for the info..

    I have been very fortunate that that all grommets, diff was correct, only got a 1 year warranty cause I knew I would be doing some engine mods. had my personal message "Drive It Like You Stole It" scroll....I'm still on the original belt.......Barbara
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    Quote Originally Posted by BLR View Post
    Those are some very good points for the newbies just getting their Commanders...Thanks for the info..

    I have been very fortunate that that all grommets, diff was correct, only got a 1 year warranty cause I knew I would be doing some engine mods. had my personal message "Drive It Like You Stole It" scroll....I'm still on the original belt.......Barbara
    Hey BLR, I'm picking mine up tommorow, just out of curiosity how many miles do have on it. I've heard of alot of early belt failures.

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    BLR
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    I have about 850 miles on mine... LBR has an 800 rotax in his Rhino and from that I have learned to use low...anytime that we are running the dune trails where I don't need speed above..(25mph) I use low..
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    Good to know, I did the same w/my Rhino when we were in the thick stuff.

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    Thank you FlyingBryan, I am picking up my 2012 1000x Saturday - I think I will go with "King-O-Dirt" on the key on alphanumerics

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    Quote Originally Posted by GetUSum View Post
    Thank you FlyingBryan, I am picking up my 2012 1000x Saturday - I think I will go with "King-O-Dirt" on the key on alphanumerics
    I like "King-O-Dirt", you might even see if you can be there when they do it because they can put both upper and lower case letters but some look weird so you might see if it looks better all in upper case.

    Congrats on you new ride, and if you think of some stuff to add to the list here post um up.

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    Flyingbryan - dunno how much information is out on the new 2012 models. I just picked up a 800 XT, and the rear diff is a 501. I am hoping there are not any issues with this model. I am also curious if mine still uses the old visco lok, or if it is the new QE version.

    I had my dealer put "hold my beer, watch this" every time mine is started.....

    -Thomas

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    Founding Member Flyingbryan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by skully View Post
    Flyingbryan - dunno how much information is out on the new 2012 models. I just picked up a 800 XT, and the rear diff is a 501. I am hoping there are not any issues with this model. I am also curious if mine still uses the old visco lok, or if it is the new QE version.

    I had my dealer put "hold my beer, watch this" every time mine is started.....

    -Thomas
    Nice message on start-up.

    As far as the 2012 Commanders, the Rear Diff's are holding up well and they did not change anything with the Visco Loc. You can put a QE in the front if you would like. The QE part comes from a Can Am Quad but not something that Can Am has anything to do with as far as options. And I don't know how the warranty might be affected on the drive train.

    One change is you now have different tie rods, seat belt unfastened speed is up from 10 MPH to 15 MPH (for trailer loading without burning the belt), metal mud flap behind the driver seat that was missing on the first round, the frame is a little different with how they did some welds wile they made sure to get the camber correct on the front wheels unlike some of the first Commander frames, and the Spindles (Hub Carrier) is stronger now too. You can find threads about the Hub Carrier on a Google search.

    By the way all the Commanders are pre wired for GPS and Radio under the dash for power. If you want to add a Limited Stereo or GPS it is just a matter of getting the $65 dash and the $650 GPS and or $800 complete stereo and bolting it in and plugging in the power already supplied under the dash.

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    Thanks for the information. I did some research on them before I bought it... But the sales guy also told me I was getting a 2011... But my keys and all my documentation says 2012..

    Anything I need to really worry about on this one? I have 7 hours on it currently.

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