[dieselpowered]

Been surfing around the net and found a few people who have burned up the CVT belt on their machines. Anyone experience this at all yet?

 

[BLR]

We have not expierenced it yet, but from seeing some of the posts, it could be user error.. we have a few new owners that have not had a SxS before and maybe using high when stopping at the bottom of a hill and slipping the belt instead of pulling it down into low, another instance in slipping the tires grinding it out in high instead of putting it into low....when in mud....
The only belt we have had to replace on the Rhintax was driver error...cutting back and forth accross the face of a dune....boy do they stink
and that is how a friend on his RZR burnt up a belt also...

 

[Razorback Dave]

I made a belt post here about this very same subject. I am very certain I have toasted my belt, but waiting until I get the "Ordrered" belt to verify.
Im happy to know that im not alone now in this regard.
Thank You Michael.

 

[dieselpowered]

It is easy to burn a belt, I did it the first time I took my Teryx to the dunes. With that said, I suppose the other thing I am getting at is if these machines that have burned a belt came from the dealer with an incorrectly tensioned belt.

 

[LBR]

First mistake is not using Low near as much as one should...we almost made 40 MPH @ WOT last weekend in low range.....don't be intimidated by the RPM when you first take off,,,that CVT will catch up, hook up and Low will save you belts....this includes low speed 180* turns, starts on hills and quite a gamat of times you'll find Low can be used instead of High....

Second mistake (dunes) is serpentining on a wide, tall dune face...zig-zagging back and forth and carving ruts in 2 wheel drive....while the actual act of side to side is fine while on the throttle, the problem arises when you back off the throttle, cut the wheel back the other way, then nail the throttle again....you've disengaged the secondary clutch, then told it to hook back up instantly with a 1200# machine on a hell of an incline in super-soft sand......your smoking and over-heating that belt BAD....do that abusiveness 6-8 times back and forth and you'll be due for another belt......Lance

 

[Razorback Dave]

@Lance,
I have to laugh. I was probably doing what you described for three days worth of riding. Its so easy to want to drive these things like a Quad.
Now that I have "hopefully" mastered throttle input while duning there wont be so many abrupt throttle settings.

 

[kleinwild]

We have burned several. We are now running ///Airdam primary clutches and have had ZERO issues. We can also run 58MPH in low range.

 

[Razorback Dave]

Im likin havin you around already there Kleinwild.
Thanks for the information.

 

[JIMI T.]

remember when your going slow stay in low (25mph or slower) going faster stay in high, other wise you will have belt issues, premature wearing, the belt jumps up and down on the sheves.

 

[LBR]

the belt jumps up and down on the sheves

Jimi.....IMO, if your belt is jumping up and down, best get the problem fixed before riding again....somethings definately wrong with it or broken ....these belts are designed to and do run tight and true all the time......these CVTs are not like the centrifical clutch on our go-carts from yesteryear.....Lance

 

[JIMI T.]

i meant moves not jumping like its loose,the belt will slide up and down,up shift back shift to soon

 

[LBR]

i meant moves not jumping like its loose,the belt will slide up and down,up shift back shift to soon

.....I was sure that I read that differently than you had intended!!...lol....sometimes my intepretations skills are the.. ....so, lo siento, mi amigo.........Lance

 

[///AIRDAM]

the can-am BRP clutch is known for eating belts, and when coupled with the weight and power of the commander, it is going to be an issue. i have seen multiple commanders blow a belt before 100 miles. not necessarily the owners fault, so dont blame yourself for riding the machine too hard. it is purely the design of the primary clutch. it is inevitable. i have a whole new primary clutch that fixes the issue.

 

[JIMI T.]

we havent had any belt issues with the canam atv clutches or belts,but one,do to 1/2 gal of mud and swamp water in the coves lol,now the sleds diff story,but then again if you stay on top of them your good,they have alot more kevlar in them now for the incress POWER,We have done many mod and pro mod drag sleds and the new belts handle well over 250 hp with no problems,

 

[///AIRDAM]

the sled clutches are different than the ATV-UTV clutch in many aspects, and can definitely handle power alot more easily than the ATV-UTV clutch. the ATV clutch is designed with a 2piece primary that will spin independently, meaning the inner and outer sheaves will spin and rotate differently from each other. under serious power or load, the clutch will slip the outer sheave, glazing and roasting the belt. on high HP machines, upwards of 70hp, the clutch will actually slip so bad that the outer sheave will tighten the primary bolt up to the point of over tightening the bolt and snapping the bolt off in the crank. i have seen multiple machines do just that.

 

[JIMI T.]

Airdamm dont take this in a bad way,but you are wrong about the primary and secondary clutches,it is physically inpossible for the primary to spin in differnt direction,unless you take it off and split the 2 sheves,i have been building cvt clutches for over 15yrs,

 

[///AIRDAM]

sir, i can assure you, the factory BRP clutch installed in the outlander 400, 500, 650, and 800, along with the renegades, and commander, are all the same clutch, and the inner fixed sheave, and the outer movable sheave are not locked together. the outer primary movable sheave has no way to lock itself to the fixed inner sheave. there is a tapered seat inside the shaft of the fixed shave, that the spyder also has a tapered male end that seats into the clutch. the spyder fits down on the movable sheave and the tapers of the shaft and spyder are the only things that hold the outer movable sheave to the inner. as you apply too much power to the clutch, the inner and outer sheave will rotate independently of each other, also if you will remove a clutch off of one of those machines you can also see that as the one-way bearing in the base of the clutch engages, it will also rotate the outer movable sheave about 15 degrees counterclockwise of the inner fixed sheave. you may have done alot of snowmobile clutches, or other types of atv clutches, but this one BRP has on their can-am ATV and UTV line WILL rotate independently and it is the reason the can-ams are so rough on belts

 

[///AIRDAM]

the secondary however you are right about. they do not have any problems slipping. they are splined together and only move in and out with each other. there is no way for the secondary to slip or spin in any way opposite of each sheave. the primary however will. the inner and outer sheaves will spin and rotate in different directions of each other without a doubt.

 

[Razorback Dave]

Adam Hi,
I sent you a PM and an email to your company. What I would really like to do is call you and talk to you about an order for my Commander.
Help me get the details right and pay with a Credit Card.

Thanks,
Dave

 

[LBR]

Adam Hi,
I sent you a PM and an email to your company. What I would really like to do is call you and talk to you about an order for my Commander.
Help me get the details right and pay with a Credit Card.

Thanks,
Dave

And I'll give you the "Ship To:" address when Dave is done, Adam.......lance