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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well I see a lot of y'all have the same complaint with the heat in the cab on the commanders. I just got in my rolls of cool tec. I am going to do the console and under the lowewr box. This is a good Idea that will help, but why not hit the problem at the source. Can-am sets these motors to run hot to pass emissions tests. There is a fan controller mod to lower the operating temp Thermostat is 150 and fan cuts on about 205 if memory serves me right. Hayden makes a fan controler part #3647 for about $35.It comes preset for 160 deg. but is adjustable. You run + and - wire to battery,control wire to ignition and power wire to pos. lead on fan. On the fan lead you solder the power to the pos.wire without cutting it loose . That way the controller cycles the fan at 160 instead of 205. and if the unit fails the bike goes back to using the factory system no problems.Radiator runs cooler,motor runs cooler and air off radiator is cooler. Therefore the console will be cooler. This will help eliminate the dreaded hot limp home mode in the summer. Did this mod on my XMR, and my LTD. when I get the commander X back from the shop I will be installing this system. My BRP mechanic said this sounds like a good system to use. Way better than running hot.
Oh yea, forgot to mention most peeps say makes more power running cooler.:cool:
 

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Nice idea to get it to run cooler. I have the box from K&T and I hope that will do the same thing, lowering the fan ON temperature.
 

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We're all for the underhood temps getting lowered, but do endorse the cab heat, unlike most peeps....and CanAm does make their machines run hot...the Rhintax fan (from an Outlander) cycles on @ 220* and off @ 208*......Lance
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
We're all for the underhood temps getting lowered, but do endorse the cab heat, unlike most peeps....and CanAm does make their machines run hot...the Rhintax fan (from an Outlander) cycles on @ 220* and off @ 208*......Lance
Excuse me,what do you mean endorse cab heat?

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Oh OK lucky you! This weekend was 107 where we were camped in Texas.Cruising 15 mph the commander would get hot and go into limp mode. We felt like baked potatoes
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
One thing My BRP mechanic suggested was to insert a diode inline between the splice made at the fan and the console of the bike. This would prevent any possibility of current back feeding. This has not been a prob. on my bike or others but I am a cautious person and I think this is a good Idea. I cut the line and soldered a mini fuse holder in line. BRP sells the diodes in mini fuse form. It is common and used on brp prod in the fuse box. they are $5 each. I went back and did this on both quads which were working fine without. Better safe than sorry. Will take pics wed when I do the commander x Then post.
 

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Think your right about the diode inline.....I think my Outlander fusebox has 2 of them if remembering correctly......if that ECU gets ANY stray feedback, especially from motor windings, probably gonna be a recipe for limp-home mode at least...:unsure:.....

Storytime:...here's a weird feedback story.....we had a 95 Ford F350 dually with a flatbed on her back.....I installed LED tail lights in it to be cool....:giggle:....everything was hunky-dory for a quite a while then..............

We were cruising in Central Oregon traveling and all of a sudden, the overdrive wouldn't work and a couple other minor electrical glitches cropped up....I couldn't figure anything out on the road, so took it easy rest of trip home.....started troubleshooting and couldn't figure it out in weeks....took it to the best auto electrical shop in town ....they piddled with it off and on for weeks....couldn't figure it out.....he got fustrated and hit the Ford Truck forums for research

Seems that in those years trucks, Ford used the tail light circuit to continuisly bleed any stray currents through the tail light lamp filiments from the ECU (the tail lights don't need to be on....the truck's stray amperage is always bleeding off through the filiments, not even enough to light them).....well, there were 3 lights in that 'bleed-off' circuit.....I took 2 of them away when I installed LEDs....that left only 1 bulb filiment to do the bleeding, the third light on back of cab, but no-one even checked the bulb....something nobody thought to do...

So you guessed it....2 of the 3 'bleeders' were stopped up by the LEDs (no filiments) and the frigging third-eye bulb burnt out then on our trip and caused the electrical gremlins......so the auto shop fixed the problem by splicing in an 1156 bulb under the hood per the forum gurus to do the bleeding and that fixed it.....

But it was I that found the third-eye bulb was burnt out (a year or 2 later..:rofl:) and told myself ,,,,"self, I wonder if that is the ultimate problem"....it was!...I removed the mickey mouse under-hood light bulb, then drove with the third-eye bulb out and problem was back,,,,,installed a good bulb...perfect!.......so finiky these electronics are!!.........Lance
 

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I got my Dad to help me and we (mostly Dad) installed dynamat under the console and side panels. Wow what a difference in heat reduction and now all we hear in the cab is the exhaust in the rear! Ready to ride in this Mississippi heat now!
 

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We covered both side panels along with the console and underseat panels. Also covered the gas tank. Hoping cooler fuel = more horsepower!
 

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Did you ever get any pics of the installation? I am very interested in less heat!
i wrote a thing about it under flex a lite, its on the home page still. you wont need pics its easy and i tell you how to do it. just look for flex a lite f,c
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
No not yet been busy getting g/f nephew honda back running and avoiding heat. Got the quads done and thinking I may wait and order the k&t module. If I do the hayden I still have to do the muzzy box. So I figure do the k&t and keep it simple. All in one

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Did get the thermo tec installed under the console

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Hi crazywes, I am new the the commander forum and for that matter the commander itself. You mention in your post that you bought a part that controls the fan allowing it to startup at a 160 degrees instead of around 205. You state that you bought it from Hayden, I am not sure how to locate Hayden on the internet, can you help me and also did you end up putting a diode inline, if you did how has that worked for you and what diode did you use?

Thank you so much
Mcmantim
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Most any auto parts store can order them. Did it to Xmr...xxc...and ltd. Works great. Commander is same. I'm getting the k&t box for commander. Does a little more. Eliminate shaft saver. And raise rpm some

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Thank you for the quick reply, if by chance you have the part number for the K&T box that would help me make sure that I get the correct item. I talked to a couple of places here in Utah this morning and they do not seem to know what will work or not work on a utv.
 

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Thank you for the quick reply, if by chance you have the part number for the K&T box that would help me make sure that I get the correct item. I talked to a couple of places here in Utah this morning and they do not seem to know what will work or not work on a utv.
Call Rayce at K&T Turbos they are the ones selling it....

you can also call Muzzy's in Oregon...if you just want a box just for the shaft saver mode....that's what I'm running...plug & play..... and it is also undectable if you have any warranty work done...just remove it before taking it to the dealer....as this one does not raise the RPMs.....I wasn't worried about the warranty part but some peeps are...Barbara
 

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This is my first post for the forum. I just got my new 2012 1000X Commander the other day. Maybe put 8 miles on it so far. I read the posts on the heat issues because it seems to be an issue with all UTV's. I figured that before I went on my first long ride in during the 90's I would seek all help to cure the problem before it starts. I Wrapped my pipes and added the Hayden switch, AMAZINGLY better!!! I could touch the pipe wrap after about 15 minutes of sitting. I may also do the Dynamat trick if it's still too warm. My guess is it should be fine. I'm going to do a waterproof toggle between the battery and the f/c for the winter time purpose later. I have read posts about the 2012 differences. I think of 2 so far. The clutch cover now has a Dynamat type of pad around the bottom where the front pipe routes. The other is the tie rod ends. As I have read, the 2011 had a regular ball and socket type of joint. Mine has a Heim joint type. I hope to find more of the little issues changed as I have so far. Thanks to all who have posted and helped me through the heat issue so far!!
 
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