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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
hey guys just a little information for you all. i did some testing on a new commander today and got you some information and a little tech for all you guys wanting to know the specifics of your machine. the helix in behind the secondary clutch controls the upshift and backshift of the clutches. the commander helix is pictured as the far right, and you can see how the ramp angles are steep and then taper to nearly nothing as the ramp gets towards the bottom. the ramp angles allow the secondary spring to load up and create a pre-wound tension, that allows the clutch to snap shut quicker, so the longer and more ramped the helix angles are, the more spring pre-tension is being produces as the clutch opens. the nearly vertical lower ramp of the commander helix (right) means there is no additional spring pre-tension created once the clutch gets about 1/3rd the way open. the picture shows the red outlander 650 helix, showing its long ramp angles, which create more spring pre-tension on the clutch as the secondary clutch opens which will hold you in a lower gear longer, and give you a more peppy midrange. you dune runners may like this 650 helix on your machines because it will allow you to run up a dune face, and the clutch will backshift quicker getting you back into a better midrange rather than the clutches being overshifted making the engine bog down. i have not done any sand testing on the dunes so it is hard for me to say exactly what will work best, but if you will give me a little time i can definitely get you guys dialed in! for now, i know how the stock commander (right) acts, and i know how to tune for it. but the red 650 helix (left) may give you some good gains in the clutching

red 650 outlander helix left
black 800 outlander helix middle
black 1000 commander helix right









also just to inform all of you, the helixs' in the can-ams have always been plastic, and have been prone to breaking on high horsepower machines. i have seen a few in my day break from excessive power, and hard launches. good news for you, the commander helix is a steel alloy, with a hard nylacarbon cover, an almost wear resistant nylon composite. this gives you the strength of steel, which means the helix will NOT break, with the assurance that you can have many miles of riding with no problems of wear. here is a video of the helix!


 

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Adam...you read my mind as far as a helix comparison.....thanx!!....even tho the 650 and 800 helixs are used and a bit worn, it still shows the different rampings,,,,especially on the bench in front of you instead of a photo to us...

There is no doubt in my mind why the 650 works better than the 800 in a heavy SxS application.......and the first third ramping on the Commander's is so eased and "wussey" looking compared to the 800 even, let alone the 650....

But I'm not sure that I'm correct in my assumption of the helix clunk getting less as it wears in with the movable sheave half,,,,can you see any indication otherwise?.....sorry for being so inquisitive, but helix rampings can make or break the whole machine characteristics,,,10-4?.....

We'll be putting an order into you in the future for sure......Lance
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
the clunk is the helix sitting in a fixed and still position, and the secondary rotating and hitting the helix abruptly causing a metal to metal sounding clunk. all the commanders i have worked on personally have not had the clunk after the CVtech installation. i am unsure if it is because the CVtech engages so much smoother than the factory clutch or what, but i have done 3 commanders myself now and all three have not had the clunk afterwards.

the helix ramps will make or break the shiftout characteristics of the clutch. it can completely change how the clutches upshift and backshift. i think the 650 helix will most likely give a prolonged and stronger midrange since the helix ramps are so aggresive and long. it will force the clutch to stay in the midrange longer for those long upshill pulls on the dunes, and allow the clutch to backshift quicker as you begin to bog to keep the engine more in its powerband. i will have to try it out that is for sure. the theory in my head says it will work well. just need to test it out on a machine and give the results.
 

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Again, thanx for the pictures......I hope your curiousity is as high as mine to compare the stock Commander helix and spring to the "clunkless upgrade" parts.....I bet the rampings on the very tips of helixs are noticibly different......Lance
 
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