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So we were out during Presidents weekend everything was going flawless till I pulled into camp, I let off the gas and it died, put it in neutral started it back up, went to put it in gear and it died again, The clutch will not disengage..?? so we just parked it for the night. Next day went to start it put it in neutral started right up, but go to put it in gear and it DIED, so we got it started again gave it a little push went into gear, but if you let off it would die...Lance hasn't tore into it, but has anyone else had this happen to them???
 

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Sounds like a weight is sticking or your oneway bearing has failed
Your right in the park.....in fact, you own the whole park.

After pulling off cover, I first noticed it was the primary sheave squeezing in on the belt, so that ruled out the helix tip jambing the inner secondary sheave. Then seen one weight hung up a little. Then seen one slider shoe had jumped out of recess and wedged between governor cup and the weight...

Pulled the primary outer and headed to the bench for more inspection. Took me 10 minutes of easy prying/tapping to separate the two pieces because that shoe was so tightly wedged. Mega damage to the surface of 3 Dalton weights, but 3 stock ones are perfect. All 3 Dalton weight pivot bushings had wore thru badly and allowed weights to pivot crooked, dug into governor cup and that one got jambed holding the outer sheave against the belt. One weight roller is totally flat and that is our holdup to get it running for this weekend...none in stock in the Pacific NW that I could locate.

One way bearings were almost froze. I had a good factory pair from my 2006 Outty and installed them temporarily, so one way is great to go. I am disappointed in the bearing manufacturer as both bearings from my Outty are completely sealed but the factory commander are only sealed on the' outside' and open on the side facing inside the one way. Both were the same bearing # too. Why? Mfg. cheaping out I think. I have a part # for a different manufacturer of one way bearings that I put in my Rhintax, far superior IMO, so will be ordering them again for the commander.

All in all, I removed the Dalton weights that I believe weren't hardened properly and replaced with stockers, put in temporary one way bearings, but am stalemated not finding any accessible governor cup rollers and roller sleeves. Bummer. I will get a few pictures of the carnaged parts and post later.


sent by a twin turboed RAZR
 

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I have a stock primary ill sell. Has roughly 100 miles on it. I have a kawasaki in my shop that the weight bushings went out causing them to kick sideways pitting the weights and spider plates. Had to order a used primary for it. Guy didnt want to drop $500+ on a new one for a 10 year old bike.
 

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So you guys are soooo speaking a foriegn language........When you post the pics please write slowly as I don't read fast....But this seems like something I may experience so would like to understand what I am looking at in your pics.........
 

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Hi Lance, that sucks, but like always you provide good information. When you post the pictures can you post the stock numbers and the manufactures of the parts that you replaced with better than oem parts? Thank you
 

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I will keep adding and editing this post for awhile when time and lack of business distractions permit.....a work in progress...lol. This will give some of you an idea of how the primary works and what damage to look for.

***********************
This is the outer half of the primary. Your belt rides on the one-way (not pictured) at the center when at an idle then moves towards the outside edge as speed/RPM's raise. This sheave will clean up great for the Saturday night dance...no damage here. The big center hole is the size of your one way bearing.



This is the outside of the above picture. The 6 weights/fingers want to fly outwards against the governor cup (next pic) as engine speed increases. Since the governor cup cannot get pushed outward because it's bolted to the end of the engine crankshaft, then this whole sheave assembly has to move towards the engine as rpm increases. When this moves inward, the belt will start to travel higher up towards the perimeter and changes the (infinate) gear ratio. This in turn operates the secondary the other way to raise your ground speed.

Next to 3 weights is a black spot. Notice the notching at #5 weight. Inspect this on yours during maintenance as it could cause the weight to hang a little there. I will be shimming those 3 weights so they can't hang up there.



This is your governor cup, (aka a spider). That center conical area mates to the engine crankshaft recess, BUT DOES NOT LOCK TO THE CRANK. I'm yelling because even tho the bolt holds these tight, it is not splined to keep this outside sheave half from turning exactly as the inner sheave that IS locked to the crankshaft. This is a sore spot when you hear of the sheave halves not absolutely locked together. This is also what many blame for the primary bolts either loosing up, or breaking completely off, but is a whole chapter in itself.

The damage here is the roller at top...it's eaten through into the roller sleeve and is now a "slider". I recently learned that if you explode a belt, the fuzz could jam into a rollers edge and lock it, causing this exact problem, so if you do blow a belt, inspect these roller for belt fuzz. I love learning new things!



Weight #1....closeup of notching on right side that occurred. The weight surface is in great shape here.



These are the 3 Dalton kit weights. 2 of them are trashed and look like maybe weren't hardened properly because the 3 stock weights are still in awesome shape. Their pivot bushings (bronze??) wore thru and started letting them pivot crooked, eventually 1 of them locked against the governor cup and wouldn't release the clutch at idle.



Check out the pivot bushings. The weight holes actually started to elogonate as you notice on the center one. I believe it was the one that locked up the clutch.



There is that 6th roller that became a slider...lol....notice the bushing on the left side that is completely missing on the right. Check these out during inspection



This is a slider shoe and is essentially a teflon button. 2 are used per roller in the above picture, one on each side. The above picture doesn't show a recessed area for it, but it sets in there to slide and guide the governor cup in and out. This one had fallen out and wedged the weight mentioned above and siezed the clutch up. Notice the mark on the inside of it. I will reuse it without a doubt. The center square is a small dowel that has broken off, which does not compromise it's working ability at all. When you take yours apart, some will have the piece there and some broken off....again, no big deal if some are broken.

When you initially remove the whole clutch assembly, hole the 2 main pieces together until you get to the bench. Then lift the governor cup straight off the sheave and be ready to corral all 12 of these buttons, because they take off on ya. You loose 1 or more and you have to buy a set of 12 from a supplier with a $50.00 bill.



There are your 6808 one-way bearings. When you initially pull off the entire primary, the one-way will stay on the shaft and will simply twist off. As you are taking it off, get your other hand in behind the one way and pinch down on the 2 springs and cups...very small and if you slip up on keeping them corralled, they will jump out and chances are you'll never find them again.

These factory bearing disappointed me as they are only sealed on one side...the other side is open and you can see the ball bearings inside...I'm not sure what their great idea was using these, but I've got fully sealed ones in there now.








sent by a twin turboed RAZR
 

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Man that sucks. One question, I see two of the one way bearings? Where do they go? As I recall my primary clutch had only one.
There are two bearings, one on each side of your one-way and each are a nice snug fit. One has a retaining clip and the other has nothing holding it in. You can tap both out using a very small punch and not do any damage to them, very easy to replace.

That last picture was from 3 years ago, but will still be a better price thru vbx bearings and a better bearing to boot. It spins easier than the stockers from BRP, which equates to easier shifting of gears. The quad guys had a situation called' gas tank humping' when fighting the shifter...these bearings allowed the one way to spin easier at idle, therefore shifting easier.

sent by a twin turboed RAZR
 

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Hmmm! I really am getting too old! Now I recall the two bearings as part of one assembly hence my responce!Lol
Hey. That's what networking is all about. Like if I ever need a Woods Buggy for a weekend ride here, you would be more than happy to have yours trucked across the US to me, right?... haha

sent by a twin turboed RAZR
 
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