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How many of you have a problem with cab heat off the engine in the cammander

  • way to much heat

    Votes: 63 57.3%
  • not ok with

    Votes: 20 18.2%
  • ok with

    Votes: 25 22.7%
  • no heat

    Votes: 2 1.8%
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Does anyone have any advice on how to reduse the heat in the cab from the engine? It seem pretty excecive to me. So much we are almost ready to go back to atv's. Ive tried a 1/2 windsheld and no windsheld but dosent seem to help that much when its above 75 F . I really like my cammander and would love to figure it out. I cant get anyweres with BRP , they are not going to addmit a design flaw or they would have to do a recall and that would mean $$ for them ... now we wouldnt want that to happen would we. Any info would be great THX
 

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Most guys have wrapped their exhaust pipes and installed insulation matting on inside of engine cowling and cover.....their reports were favorable as helping reduction of heat inside a lot

You could also install a 4" bilge blower inside the engine compartment, in front of engine blowing towards the rear....it will help cool everything in there and help force the heat out the rear of compartment ......then on a chilly morning, leave that motor off to get more heat into the cabin as you have now

Sent by my twin-turbo Droid Razr
 

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I do not see the need for a recall, the reason the heat is as high as it is from what I understand it that the fan does not start to turn until the coolant temp is over 200, I bought a black box from K&T that has the fan come on earlier, which also gains you power, it removes the shaft saver feature so no more limp home mode.

I had heard that the reason for the high heat setting was this helped it pass California Emissions, not sure it that is true or not.
I am also going to add some thermo protection inside the center hub and under the bed that will not only remove more heat but also make it quieter to run.

I guess if you lived up in Montreal you might not notice the heat as much or you might even want the heat to stay warmer much of the year.
 

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i dont think its a design flaw, the engine has to be in the middle cause polaris has a patten on putting the engine in the rear.
when i had my commander i wrapped the pipes, helped alot and i had a fan controler and a bilage blower in the engine compartment to blow heat out..st
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
thx for the feed back

i dont think its a design flaw, the engine has to be in the middle cause polaris has a patten on putting the engine in the rear.
when i had my commander i wrapped the pipes, helped alot and i had a fan controler and a bilage blower in the engine compartment to blow heat out..st
Thx for the info. I had some wrap put on the top of the consol about 1/2 way down . I still dont now way thay didnt put it all the way down and under the floor boards , it seemed to help on the top but seemed to encease down below. I am going to put some insaolation all the way down and under the floor then rap my pipes. I am going to call a couple of the can am shops and see about getting that box from k&n ( i beleve) that lowers the temp that the fan kicks on lowering the engine temp. If that dont hert anything or efect anything ill try that.Thx again to all , more info the better.
 

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i dont think its a design flaw, the engine has to be in the middle cause polaris has a patten on putting the engine in the rear.
when i had my commander i wrapped the pipes, helped alot and i had a fan controler and a bilage blower in the engine compartment to blow heat out..st
I have to disagree with this patten theroy as there are many vehicles that have the engine in the rear dating back to the first air cooled VW beatle. Even the new Artic Cat Wildcats engine in in the rear.



 

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I ride in nevada during the summer where the temps hit anywhere from 95 to 110. When I first got mine the heat off the engine made my right leg feel like it was burning and the heat coming through the shifter was unreal. I put the k&t blackbox in mine like mcmantim and now you dont even hardly notice the heat. The fan kicks on at 1 bar on the temp gauge and runs most of the time I am riding but the can am never gets hotter than 2 bars. Its definately a noticeable difference.
 

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Us land locked people are not lucky enough to have the refreshing air coming off of the Pacific, so we bake in the summer. I am glad the K&T black box worked to reduce the heat in the cab. I have also added some Thermo-tec FR material to my machine to reduce the heat transfer to zero and lower the engine and clutch noise.
 

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I Wraped The Whole Exhaust System,..With Thermo Wrap,...(I Used 2 50 Foot Rolls One On Each Pipe,..AND I DIDNT CUT IT ,WHAT a PAIN LIKE a HOUR and A HALF a PIPE,CAUSE I'M ANAL) Then I Pull All The Plastic Coweling Off And Lined The Whole Under Sides With Thermo Tec,..Its That Tar Like Stuff With Stickem on One Side And The Other Is Tin Foil,..Its Will Reduce NOISE and HEAT,..I Used Almost Three Rolls,..Think They Where Like 60 Bucks a Roll
 

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I Wraped The Whole Exhaust System,..With Thermo Wrap,...(I Used 2 50 Foot Rolls One On Each Pipe,..AND I DIDNT CUT IT ,WHAT a PAIN LIKE a HOUR and A HALF a PIPE,CAUSE I'M ANAL) Then I Pull All The Plastic Coweling Off And Lined The Whole Under Sides With Thermo Tec,..Its That Tar Like Stuff With Stickem on One Side And The Other Is Tin Foil,..Its Will Reduce NOISE and HEAT,..I Used Almost Three Rolls,..Think They Where Like 60 Bucks a Roll
You should see a remarkable difference after all of those heat reducing steps!.... I just wrapped the exhaust....we don't have the high temperatures that many of you do, so the engine heat is welcomed in our areas of riding.

sent from my twin-turboed Razr
 

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I just finished insulating plastic shrouds. I used DynaMat, got it at local audio shop. Easily molds to plastic and reasonably priced $5 sq ft. Tomorrow heat wrap pipes. Then install bilge fan. My friend reverses his bilge blower in winter and draws heat out of engine area into cab area, works well enough to keep windshield defrosted.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I brought mine in and the dealer put in a thicker thermal linner and were he put it it helps alot. were he didnt though it seem hotter . I might finsh putting it all the way up to the fire wall and across the fire wall so it might deflect the heat from the fan when it comes on. the deler also added some foam stuff around the sheifter it took care of the heater vent/shifter no more heat on the side of my face.
 

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Well since it now is 30-40 degrees in Wisconsin I will be waiting until next spring/summer to do any mods to the XT. I am leaning towards the fan thermostat relay addition. My question is what would be the problem with just wiring a switch and running the fan all the time? With the mod it would be running more often, probably 75% more, why not just keep it running all the time. Wire the switch in so that it powers up when he key is on.
 

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Well since it now is 30-40 degrees in Wisconsin I will be waiting until next spring/summer to do any mods to the XT. I am leaning towards the fan thermostat relay addition. My question is what would be the problem with just wiring a switch and running the fan all the time? With the mod it would be running more often, probably 75% more, why not just keep it running all the time. Wire the switch in so that it powers up when he key is on.
I would personally want a thermostat controlling it to cycle when needed....may save on that puny arse battery canam gave us unless you have upgraded to more cca and capacity if you sat idle while BSing the gang.

But nothing wrong with all manual toggling of fan.... a lot of Rhino guys have been doing it for 8 years now.

sent from my twin-turboed Razr
 
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