So I Dove Into My Clutch Today

@Michael,
I just picked up the new belt at the dealer yesterday. Will do a measure with precision micrometer on both and snap a pic for ya. Im removing the primary this morning as well so will take a pic of that too.
As far as the deflection tool, it was very easy to just take the belt off by hand. No real muscle involved either. Once those plates are seperated its a snap.
I think any "spec" is out the window Mike. My primary will be a modded CV Tech clutch and the secondarys are on their way to Adam @Airdam for some modding as well. As far as I know, its just put everything back together, pop the belt on and ride.
@Deagon,
Thanks Man, that is exactly what I wanted to hear. That bolt is actually way more twisted in real life than what you see in the pic. It looks like it was torqued upon removal or perhaps was torqued upon installation. Cant really know for sure.
@Lance,
Thanks Lance, you are always a wealth of information. I will definately pull the Helix and check for pt#s for ya.

Thanks
Dave

Okay Hi,
Well I just went ahead and removed the primary clutch. Didnt take a pic . It was so simple and easy. Just use a 19mm socket. I again used the electric torque wrench. My friend says it is a torque wrench so i guess it is. Anyway it comes off counter clockwise like normal. When the bolt was all the way out the primary just kind of extended out with the spring pressure. Not that much at all really. I put the wrench down and grabbed the primary off the shaft.
Next was the bearing. It wasnt much at all really. I just rotated it until it started sliding off the shaft. At this point I was watching for the little springs and caps everyone is talking about and when i saw them i just pinched them with my other hand and slid the bearing off. Now it was easy to remove the springs and put them somewhere safe. Now im ready and waiting for the primary and the reworked secondaries.
Below are a few pics of the belts and Ill try to accurately explain a few measurements. I dont have the specs handy so if someone can tell me if its in spec or not would be appreciated.
The old belt on the right is actually thicker by about .034.
The new belt is more flexible than the old belt.


The next picture tries to show the worn portion of the belt. The belt is a V of course. The top being the wide part of the V is the same measure on both belts. The bottom narrow part is .031 more narrow on the old belt. To me that would indicate the wear. .031 in 86 miles would indicate to me ALOT of wear going on.
Again the old belt on the right.

There was rubber caked up on the inside of the clutch housing but only on the secondary side not on the primary side.
Oh Lance I almost forgot your question--The Helix has a number stamped on it , 280470. Thats the only id anywhere on the helix.

hey guys that bolt is NOT normal for a bolt, but it is normal to see coming out of your machine. can-am bolts stretch and break, terribly, like alot more than you can imagine. tthey built their bolts as tension bolts, which are designed to stretch and hold tension on the clutch to keep the clutch swedged on the shafts, and the bolts stretch terribly. i sent a good bolt to ARP and they tole me that these bolts are tension bolts, made to stretch, only meant to be torqued once, and thrown away. i had them make me up the primary and secondary bolts in grade 13. no more stretch, and no more broken bolts. i have seen TONS of the bolts break off and sent the clutch through the clutch cover. the guys here in the south that race can-amks in the mud bogs and such are always breaking the bolts. i myself have tapped 3 cranks and re-threaded them to get the old primary bolt out of the crank. not fun guys not fun!

i have the primary and secondary bolts, in grade 12.9, that will not stretch and NOT break, for $30. the primary and secondary set together.

///AIRDAM said:

also, the commander helix is different that the 800ATV and 650ATV helix. the 650 helix everybody referrs to has longer ramp angles on the helix which hold you in lower gear longer by increasing the ramp angles of the helix it increases the springs pre-tension as your clutch upshifts so that is is compounding the springs rate, which holds you in lower gear longer, and gives you a faster backshift when you let out of the throttle.

Click to expand...

Adam...thanx for that helix info....I assume that you have physically compared the Commander helix to, say, an 800 helix......I am wondering about the steepness of the lobe angles....

When I did my Rhino Rotax engine swap, I automatically removed the 800 helix and installed a new 650 one that I had lightly filed on the 3 points....when I compared the 2, I noticed that the 650 had a steeper angled (degree) inclined of the 3 lobes,,,,thus throwing the sheave half into the belt quicker and harder than an 800 helix would at a given RPM....my reasoning was to put more bite on the belt at engagement and above to try and help from burning the belt....it also develops more heat as a by-product of the harder belt pinch, but I chose the lesser of the 2 evils....

If this Commander helix is ramped the same or a less-steep angle that an 800 helix, then I may look into using a 650 like I did on my Rhino....alot better than burning belts IMO

And my Rhino primary is getting fairly worn where the spider works back and forth on the other half, so I could use another primary.....does it look feasible to get one of your primarys for the Commander and then use the stock Commander primary on my Rhino (from a 2006 Outlander)?....Lance