Not sure if any of you have heard or even used these before, however, thought I would bring them to your attention. Here is some information from their site, however, you can read everything about them at the link below.
Conventional bead locks mechanically clamp the outside tire bead to the rim, always, and rarely, the inside. They do a 100% perfect job at that. Staun Internal BeadLock locks both the inside and the outside beads to the rim. Although it is less common to lose the inside bead, it nevertheless happens. Proof in point: Prior to installing Staun Internal BeadLocks, Blaine Johnson was used to regularly and undesirably burping air out of a rear, conventionally bead locked wheel. With the Stauns, the problem vanished.
Conventional bead locks can be difficult to balance. The conventional bead lock puts all of the weight on the outside of the wheel, only. That's typically a ring plus 24 cap screws and washers. This could make for balancing problems. But on the plus side, this ring protects the vulnerable valve stems.
Staun Internal BeadLocks are light weight (about 5 pounds for fifteen inchers) and the weight is evenly distributed from the inside to the outside of the rim. Further, since some of the weight is nearer the center of the rim, it minimizes imbalance effects. There are no balancing problems with Staun BeadLocks.
If you drive on a conventionally bead locked flat, you stand a good chance of damaging the rim, tire or both. The Staun BeadLock tube and case add height to the flat as if it were not flat, and in fact, that is actually what’s happening. A portion of the tubeless cavity still contains air at high pressure and keeps the rim off the ground.
My buddy used those on his Woodsbuggy and they were the biggest pain in the Ass and did not last long before they got pinched. He went back to the reliable steel ring setup
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