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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
One thing I decided was I was not drilling out my spindle to install a bigger tie rod. No offense to any of the manufacturers that require this, it just was not something I wanted to do to my machine. So I looked at the Holz Kit and the Turnkey Kit.

Having installed the Holz kit I can say the Turnkey set is designed better and here is why.

One huge problem I had with the design of the Holz kit was that the tie rod had no reverse thread on either end. There was no notch on the tie rod to adjust the toe. So you had to take one of the ends off to adjust the alignment. I just thought this was crazy, when we first started spinning the tierod to adjust the alignment the rod was just moving back and forth across the tie rod ends.

When Talking with Adam at Turnkey they do have a reverse thread in one end. Also there is a notch in the tie rod you can use to adjust the toe with out having to take it off. The Holz kit does not it has a smooth shaft you have to take off to adjust the alignment. With the Turnkey you can just loosen the Jam nut and adjust as you need and tighten it back up.

Then Holz kit is nice and made with quality components, but they need to change the threading on one end. The turnkey kit has this already and proves to me they think of little things like this before putting their product out to market.

Wanted to let everyone know what I found out when looking at these two options for tie rods.

So +1 Adam on another fine product from Turnkey. Can't wait to see what you all come out with next!!
 

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Nice post ....and the Holtz methodology does sound very strange! ....have you called them for an explanation on why no reverse threads? ...am betting the explanation will be a bit flimsy,,,,,, but may also be very sound as to why no reversed threads .....would be nice to hear their side of story ....Lance

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LSR Tie rods are a direct stock replacement and adjust like OEM. They do use the OEM outer tie rod end. They are not the strongest ends however something needs to give. I did discover that they are the same ones used on the Honda Pilots. It just so happens I have 4 of them on the shelf left over from my Long travel conversions that use Hiems. I Installed the LSRs on my "X". If I had one bad thing to say about them is I would of thought they would have made the inner wrench flats the same dimension as stock so two special wrenchs would not be needed. I ran them for 300 Miles and 100 miles of that was a high speed race and they held of fine.



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Thanks rainmaker, I am waiting on Holz tie rods and that just won't do having tie rods that have to come off to be adjusted.

See next post. I think all is good with Holz tie rods.
 

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Just looked at the picture of the Holz tie rods and I see what you are saying but looks like all you have to do is tighten the inside lock nut and then adjust the tie rod like the factory one by only loosening the outer lock nut. The inside ball joint will rotate but not move in or out wile the outside will move in or out on the threads.

So I think the Holz tie rods will work perfect.

 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
You are right it will spin in the cup. I am sure you can keep the threads even on each side too when you measure and adjust each nut. But for me I prefer the rh thread on one side and lh on the other, you don't have to take the extra time to keep everything even etc. When you spin the tie rod the threads will be even on each side of the tie rod with a LH and RH thread. (Assuming you want it to end up with the threads even on each side) There is no having to readjust each time. The Holz setup does work but it is much easier to adjust the alignment when you can just adjust the tie rod itself until you get it where you want and tighten the jam nuts. Why take the extra steps if you don't have to.

I am sure your way works just as well, I just like to keep the amount of threads showing even on each side. Having opposite threads make this way easy.

Glad they worked out for you though. That is all that really matters.

Here is a pic of the Turnkey Tie rod for comparison.

 

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I have yet to get mine from Holz, just looking at there picture. I like the look of both but I tend to like steel a little better for something like this.

One other thing I was thinking is the factory boot will not have to be pulled back on the Holz, where the boot will be in the way on the other ones out there where you have to loosen the inboard jam nut. Not saying the are not better just pointing it out.
 

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I suspect the Holtz design is to leave the inner lock nut alone. It is merly their design a 2 piece rod in lieu of the factory and LSRs one piece design. Lossen the outer lock nut, turn the tie rod and your done, just like stock. I will say the Factory UTV design will be stronger than the above mentioned 3 designs. However I feel they are to strong for the factory rack and the rack will go first. I already have a lot of gearlash in mine just from normal woods riding.



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With all the talk of tie rods should I buy a set before I start riding my unit harder as I am still taking it easy on break in. I hate to sink money into something I really don't need, but then I don't want to end up stranded in the woods broken. I already have the dreaded "clunk" when I first take off. Someone I know was out for his first ride, he got 25 mls into it, was stopped put it in reverse and was stuck there, could not shift out of reverse. He had to back out of the woods 16 mls(thank god for reverse override). I'm just contemplating what to spend on, accesories or parts that are gonna get me home. You would think all the testing canam did they would of figured this stuff out!!
 

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With all the talk of tie rods should I buy a set before I start riding my unit harder as I am still taking it easy on break in. I hate to sink money into something I really don't need, but then I don't want to end up stranded in the woods broken. I already have the dreaded "clunk" when I first take off. Someone I know was out for his first ride, he got 25 mls into it, was stopped put it in reverse and was stuck there, could not shift out of reverse. He had to back out of the woods 16 mls(thank god for reverse override). I'm just contemplating what to spend on, accesories or parts that are gonna get me home. You would think all the testing canam did they would of figured this stuff out!!
I do drive my commander hard when I am on my own but I bent my tie rod on a slower ride and I have no idea how. Like I said I do drive hard and I have landed on one front wheel without bending a tie rod and even hit rocks that could have bent the tie rod but didn't bend then. So hard to say, but I would say if you are not going LT (Long Travel) some day, then get a better set of tie rods or at least get one spare stock tie rod off eBay for next to nothing. I think I saw a set of stock tie rods for one dollar a couple of weeks ago on eBay. I am keeping my old ones but a lot of guys sell there old stockers when they get the new ones.
 

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Good idea on the spare Bryan....it is irritating to do machine damage on an easy ride, but no damage on intense rides.....happens alot that way .......

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FB Thanx for the feedback, after scouring diff. threads looks like I'll invest in a set of tie rods before I end up broken in the woods and the butt end of jokes from fellow riders.
 

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FB Thanx for the feedback, after scouring diff. threads looks like I'll invest in a set of tie rods before I end up broken in the woods and the butt end of jokes from fellow riders.
There you go...what I'm thinking ....swap out the bent shaft with the spare straight shaft....then give your fellow riders with the butt end jokes your bent shaft! ...well, you know what I mean!! ...ROTSLMAO .....Lance

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